Wajahat Rather

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Wajahat Rather
Born Anantnag, Kashmir
Education
  • National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad
  • Nottingham Trent University, UK
Awards Gold Medal in Fine Arts (Jammu University)

Wajahat Hussain Rather is a fashion and textile designer from Kashmir. Wajahat’s label Raffughar has exhibited works at several national and international platforms. Rather is also Associate Professor at Pearl Academy of Fashion, New Delhi, India [1] and has more than a decade long experience in the academic domain. Additionally, he has designed logos and created murals for many state governments.

Biography

Early Life

Belonging to Kashmir, Wajahat was born and raised admist turmoil. However, he chose to use the pain and suffering to create clothes inspired from the traditional values and conventional crafts of India [2].

Rather was a different kid whose life revolved around painting [3]. By the time he was in high school, it was apparent that he and his ways were far from conventional. In view of the fact that painting and design are not viewed as serious professions even today, choosing to take this path wasn’t an easy decision for him. Despite stereotypical apprehensions, he went ahead to study Fine Arts and graduated with a gold medal in Painting from the Jammu University. His love for painting gradually progressed into an interest in design. His multicultural background, inquisitive nature and an interest in behavioural science drove his inclination towards a scientific approach to design [4].

It was his mentor at the Institute of Fine Arts, Jammu, Padamshri Mr. Rajinder Kumar Tiku, who identified his unique approach towards Fine Arts and encouraged him to apply to National Institute of Design [5]. He went on to pursue his post graduation in Textile Design from the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad [6], and MA in Fashion and Textiles from Nottingham Trent University, UK. Born and brought up in Kashmir, he has been exposed to a rich craft culture. And now, as a designer, he is acclaimed for using his cultural heritage in novel ways.

Career

Model walks for Raffughar at FDCI's ELLE First Cut, 2018

Rather joined the Craft Development Institute, Srinagar, for a final year project where he was working with the master soznikars of Kashmir. In his interactions with them, he was told that historically they were raffoogars or darners who would mend clothes [7]. The cultural and philosophical facets of their life inspired him to name his label after them.

Wajahat established Raffughar in 2013. In his initial works, he experimented with Pashmina stoles and Namda rugs. The domain of his label’s offerings was later extended to Apparel [8]. The uniqueness of Wajahat’s work lies in his ability to redefine contemporary design with the use of elements like heritage, culture and nature. His collections are an interesting amalgamation of Kashmir’s rich ensemble of traditional silhouettes and dimensions such as calligraphy and motifs [9].

Wajahat showcased his women’s wear collection Qurbat at the Lotus India Fashion Week in October 2018 [10]. As a collection that draws its inspiration from the Pinjarakari craft, the central elements focused on formations of intricate geometric patterns, which were made using screens of interwoven laths. This craft is traditionally used in architectural elements such as partitions, balconies, windows and ventilators [11].

Wajahat Rather's Fashion Show at FDCI's ELLE First Cut, 2018

His ‘Tarakhmaal’ collection for spring/summer 2019 was featured in Pool Magazine [12]. This collection assimilates that thought by assembling the fragments together into textiles and closely observing the symbolic, poetic and literal aspects of the craft. Techniques, like hand pleating, which thoughtfully translate this idea, have been extensively used.

In 2020, Vogue India [13], in addition to many others [14][15][16][17][18], named Raffughar among top five emerging fashion brands of India. His recent collection ‘‘Hakeemo - The Healer’’ is a zero-waste sustainable range [19]. Wajahat believes in reusing and recycling to the fullest. Hakeemo is an initiative to repurpose textile waste and use upcycled fabric.

In his academic career, spanning across several years, Wajahat taught at the Northern India Institute of Fashion Technology, Mohali [20] before joining the Institute of Design, State University of Performing And Visual Arts at Rohtak, as one of the founder faculties [21]. He is currently an Associate Professor at Pearl Academy, New Delhi. He has contributed to building grounds for successful career of hundreds of design students [22][23][24].

Design Philosophy

Rather’s design philosophy revolves around blending traditional silhouettes and contemporary designs. His work epitomizes his belief in the use of a collaborative and synergistic approach to design. Apparently, his work translates from the demographic and ethnographic study of Kashmir [25]. Having branches in Kashmir, Raffughar attempts to establish a link between urban markets and small craft-based producers. Raffughar personifies his love for the crafts and textiles of Kashmir - his home [26].

The famous darners of Kashmir are the inspiration behind Raffughar. The literal meaning of ‘raffugar’ is a healer of damaged cloth. Therefore, the association of a raffugar with damaged cloth goes beyond just restoration. A raffugar connects with the cloth at a historical and emotional level. ‘It is like mending relationships—connecting the past with the present’. Wajahat’s Raffughar is a global brand that is finely connected to its roots with the vision to stay truthful to the aesthetics that shape it. It will be a fair-trade sustainable brand, carving a niche for itself in the ‘gender-equality’ market [27], not just for clients but also as a means of providing sustenance to people they work with irrespective of their gender or orientation.

Rather’s work ideology truly focuses on paying attention to details. Through Raffughar, he concretizes his focus on production model and designs that are environmentally conscious, minimizing fabric waste by producing only small batches.

Traditionalism and Sustainable Evolution of Crafts

Rather’s initiatives takes into consideration the traditional sensibilities of crafts of India. He believes that traditional crafts such as hand techniques are sophisticated and have evolved with time. Thus, a strategic direction is required for contemporarizing them. His work focuses on admiring and accepting the limitations of crafts and embracing the imperfection and simplicity that are fundamentally a part of their existence. Wajahat also intends to revive the natural processes of craft-making and associated traditionalism in view of the contemporary global markets, advocating the notion of DNC - Design, Nature and Crafts - to yield a meaningful whole.

Awards and Distinction

  • Fashion Show (2018): Debut at FDCI’s presents ELLE First Cut where he presented his womens wear collection “QURBAT” [28].
  • Mens wear Popup (2018): A man for all seasons, Good Earth, New Delhi showcased his mens wear collection ‘’Dastawaiz’’ [29][30][31][32][33][34][35]
  • Exhibition (2016): International Innovative Craft Fair, Bangkok
  • Gold Medal (2014): Fine Arts, Jammu University

References

  1. "Best College in India for Design & Fashion, Business & Media Courses" (in en). https://pearlacademy.com/academics/faculty/school-of-fashion/wajahat-rather/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  2. "Kaschmir-Konflikt in Indien - Radikalisierung von Hindus und Muslimen" (in de-DE). https://www.deutschlandfunkkultur.de/kaschmir-konflikt-in-indien-radikalisierung-von-hindus-und.979.de.html?dram:article_id=464780. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  3. KL, Team; Sato, T. (12 August 2014). "Kashmir Lit". http://www.kashmirlit.org/wajahat/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  4. "Fashioning gender neutral clothes" (in en). 5 June 2019. https://marigolddiary.com/2019/06/05/fashioning-gender-neutral-clothes/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  5. "Retelling Stories From The Past" (in en). https://www.magzter.com/article/Art/POOL/Retelling-Stories-From-The-Past. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  6. "Young Designer :: Student Detail >>". http://www.nid.edu/youngdesigners/archive/yd09/StudentDetail.php?sid=NDk=&_p_=37. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  7. "Wajahat Rather started Raffughar as a tribute to the traditional darners of Kashmir, to contemporize the ancient craft techniques of his home state". https://www.indipool.com/wajahat-rather-started-raffughar-as-a-tribute-to-the-traditional-darners-of-kashmir-to-contemporize-the-ancient-craft-techniques-of-his-home-state/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  8. "Recreating the Fabric of Kashmir". http://platform-mag.com/fashion/recreating-the-fabric-of-kashmir.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  9. "DesignXDesign". http://designxdesign.net/?p=4540. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  10. "Fashion Show". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tACYYnwJW-w. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  11. Tripathi, Devika (15 October 2018). "Inclusivity And Preservation Of Culture Was The Theme Of This Label At India Fashion Week 2018" (in en). https://www.boldsky.com/fashion/trends/raffughar-s-collection-at-india-fashion-week-2018-126228.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  12. "POOL 108" (in en). https://issuu.com/poolmagazine/docs/pool108_for_preview. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  13. "5 emerging fashion brands that should be on your radar right now" (in en-IN). https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/emerging-fashion-brands-that-should-be-on-your-radar-right-now-torani-ithr-poochki. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  14. "These Are The New Labels We're Currently Loving" (in en). https://www.grazia.co.in/fashion/these-are-the-new-labels-were-currently-loving-4148-3.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  15. Chodankar, Maithili (28 September 2019). "5 UPCOMING DESIGNERS IN 2019". http://elanstreet.com/blog/5-upcoming-designers-2019/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  16. "Cool emerging Indian labels that help you make fashion-forward choices". 19 March 2020. https://www.lifestyleasia.com/ind/style/cool-indian-emerging-labels-you-need-to-know-about/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  17. "Emerging Indian designers to know about ::". https://www.misskyra.com/fashion/emerging-indian-designers-to-know-about/photostory/66803604.cms. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  18. "5 emerging Indian designers you should know". https://elle.in/article/5-emerging-indian-designers-to-watch/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  19. "Designer Wajahat Rather on his clothing label Raffughar and Kashmiri syncretism". 23 September 2019. https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/view-from-the-valley-kashmir-designer-wajahat-rather-raffughar-6018869/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  20. "Prospectus". http://www.niiftindia.com/prospectus-2010.pdf. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  21. "College-Rohtak". http://www.punjabcolleges.com/62033-indiacolleges-State-Institute-of-Fashion-Design-Rohtak/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  22. "Now, clothes from discarded cassette reels". 30 September 2014. https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/panache/now-clothes-from-discarded-cassette-reels/articleshow/43904525.cms. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  23. "Junk Funk! - Indian Express". http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/junk-funk-/534650/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  24. "Laureate Student Perspectives - Ashita Singal, Pearl Academy– 2018 Global James Mcguire Competition Winner". 21 January 2019. https://www.laureate.net/laureate-student-perspectives-ashita-singal-pearl-academy-2018-global-james-mcguire-competition-winner/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  25. "View From the Valley | BINJ.IN". https://binj.in/fashion/view-from-the-valley/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  26. "Designer Wajahat Rather on his clothing label Raffughar and Kashmiri syncretism". 22 September 2019. https://motsa.tv/designer-wajahat-rather-on-his-clothing-label-raffughar-and-kashmiri-syncretism/. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  27. "Cool Weaves". https://www.newindianexpress.com/magazine/2018/dec/09/cool-weaves-1908147.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  28. "Inclusivity And Preservation Of Culture Was The Theme Of This Label At India Fashion Week 2018" (in en-IN). https://in.style.yahoo.com/inclusivity-preservation-culture-theme-label-083423992.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  29. "Your bridal trousseau needs a Kashmiri twist - Times of India" (in en). https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/fashion/designers/your-bridal-trousseau-needs-a-kashmiri-twist/articleshow/67041442.cms. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  30. "Good Earth". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BVF4SsXNHo. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  31. "Good Earth Launches its First Menswear Pop-up" (in en). https://thevoiceoffashion.com/fabric-of-india/news/good-earth-launches-its-first-menswear-popup-981. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  32. August 3, Press Trust of India; August 3, Press Trust of India; Ist, Press Trust of India. "Kashmiri boatman to the lazy lad: How sustainable fashion is styling the everyday man" (in en). https://www.indiatoday.in/pti-feed/story/kashmiri-boatman-to-the-lazy-lad-how-sustainable-fashion-is-styling-the-everyday-man-1304074-2018-08-03. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  33. India, Press Trust of (3 August 2018). "Kashmiri boatman to the lazy lad: How sustainable fashion is styling the everyday man". https://www.business-standard.com/article/pti-stories/kashmiri-boatman-to-the-lazy-lad-how-sustainable-fashion-is-styling-the-everyday-man-118080300279_1.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  34. "Fashion is styling everyday man from kashmiri boat man to Lazy lad" (in en). https://www.devdiscourse.com/article/agency-wire/100333-fashion-is-styling-everyday-man-from-kashmiri-boat-man-to-lazy-lad. Retrieved 17 May 2020. 
  35. News, Hello Jammu. "Kashmiri boatman to the lazy lad: How sustainable fashion is styling the everyday man". http://www.hellojammu.news/2018/08/kashmiri-boatman-to-lazy-lad-how.html. Retrieved 17 May 2020.